Jul 23 2008

Apricot Brandy, legless Freemen and Bryn Glas

Category: home,Mountaineeringash @ 12:39 pm

A rather hectic weekend.  Had our very belated Housewarming on Friday, which went really well.  A good mix of people, lots of beer, sprout gin and apricot brandy.  About 25 ish people came down which was ace, and about 10 crashed over for the night.  Due to work committments Kate couldn’t make it which was a real shame, so I think she’s going to have another one at some point.

Drank some booze.  Well, quite a lot really. But not as much as Martin.  I think after he got his foul Czech spirit out (after the brandy and whiskey), Maria then convinced him to move onto wine.

Hence his rather slow start on Saturday morning.  Every time we turned around he was asleep again.  He finally appeared into the world at 12:30, then went home (allegedly to get stuff to go climbing) and fell asleep again.  After a world of yes/no conversations, we decided to head to Wales with Maria P and her feller.  A chat with Heather confirmed that we could crash at the Bryn Glas cottage ( as long as I took the guitar), so we headed on over.

Decided to get a route in on the way there – after eating etc it was about 8pm when we got to Ogwyn, so decided on Llyn on Gribin Facet, a HS** single pitch route.  Headed over there, kitted up, led up it. Nice, if a little damp. Couple of thrutchy bits on it – set up belay, brought Martin up.  He was carrying a rucsac with our trainers in, so was at a disadvantage to me, but still seemed to be having issues getting up it.  When he finally got to the top, he stopped responding to my questions – which was a little odd – and kept grabbing the rock and clinging to it.  And turned yellow (a bad colour to turn).  Looked like death, any question I asked got no response. (I hasten to point out that although it’s described as 1 pitch, it finishes 1/2 way up a different climb – another pitch of Diff to go.).  About 5 mins pass, (now 21:30, getting dark, starting to worry), so I suggest soloing the next bit trailing the rope, then bringing him up, and got a grunt in response – which was good enough for me.  Storm up the top, get a belay in, drag him up.

Yellowness disappearing, Martin speaks and explains that nearly passed out several times, purple flashing lights in front of eyes, thinking it’s due to massive dehydration.  We find a tiny stream and he slurps away, and within a couple of mins is right as rain again. Very bizzare.

Round to the cottage, and spend (yet another) happy evening/night at Bryn Glas, chatting about the world with Heather til 03:30.  Realised that crags beckon, so hit the sack.

Sunday took Martin up Flying Buttress, a classic VD on Dinas Cromlech.  he’d got best part of £200 of new shiney climbing kit that needed smacking about, which I gladly did.  Topped out, got off, headed home, sorted kit, then out to Gathering meeting to announce we’ve estimated numbers of 600 for (a LOT more than normal).

Then last night (Tues) managed to fail to climb with Fitz at Wilton (piss wet when I got there after work – only takes 20 mins – winner!), so we went for a run round Appley bridge/beacon instead.  Did 12 km, mostly off-road which was ace.  Ache now though!


Jul 13 2008

800 miles for a route ….

Category: Uncategorizedash @ 11:24 pm

And yes, it was worth it.

Up to Aviemore with Matt Forshaw – Saturday was full ming, so tried to get a full day in & went up the Fiacall Ridge in Summer, then ran away as fast as possible as we were sodden to the skin and quite cold.  Dried out (not) on the side of Loch Morlich then after grabbing some brews we hit the cinema at Inverness to kill some time before getting an earlyish night -after catching some tunes in Mambos.

Sunday we hit straight for Coire Lagan, and did Savage Slit – (S***) –  an awesome route.  Prore (on the right of it, a VS) was in better condition (i.e. not sodden on half of it), but the crack itself was excellent, so after doing that & topping out we were happy in heading back and getting home at an acceptable time.  That being 10pm after leaving Aviemore at 3pm.

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On the way in I found a Petzel Ecrin Roc helmet -the same as mine – at the bottom of the Great Slab.  This is were stacks of ice and snow build up every year – it’s well known for being prone to avalanche as a stream often flows underneath the snow pack.  Anyway, it looks as though the helmet had been involved in an accident of sorts, then been abandoned and the weather had got at it, crushing it under the heavy snow and ice.

It’s been handed in to the Wardens on Cairngorm Mountain, here’s hoping it was just accidently dropped earlier this year.

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It’s a long … long way.


Jul 07 2008

Finally found it …

Category: Musicash @ 11:05 pm

After months (years) of meaning to hunt for a poem I wrote years ago, I’ve finally found it.  Bare that soul Green – Bare it! The Power.


Jul 06 2008

Jon Kellie’s stag doo

Category: Uncategorizedash @ 8:40 pm

Top weekend down on the Gower.  Never been down there – will be returning in better weather to climb – possibly make more of a break at the Wedding in early Sept.

Lots of music, lots of new people, a reasonable amount of beer and the conquering of the Worms Head.

Most ace to spend time with Sam and Jon, and evan better to a) catch up with Nayfe SJ, and b) get to strum along on the bazooka to some of Nayfe’s tunes that I’ve been listening to for years.  Big highlight of the weekend there.

 Lookin’ forward to the wedding though.  Some great people there.


Jul 04 2008

Ooopsie. How to get nicked. Nearly.

Category: homeash @ 8:00 am

After a day on the phones at work yesterday I went climbing with Heather, over in the peak.  For some reason I thought that getting to Chapel en le frith should be quite straightforward, leaving work at 4:15.

2 and a half poxy hours later I arrived at the crag, gently fuming.  Bloody communters.  Got a few routes in – Castle naze, stunning views, excellent climbing, damn windy – (that’s the conditions, not names of routes!), then retired to the nearby pub for one before heading home.  Only 1hr 15 to get back – a lot more respectable & stopped just off the East Lancs road to top up with LPG (oh yeah, I’ve got a very shiney new toy, which isn’t me at ALL).

6am, Chris wakes me up, saying the police are on the phone.  Alarms start ringing.  Turns out I’d driven off from the pump without paying – the LPG tank is next to a ‘normal’ fuel dispenser & I’d used the pay-at-pump option …. which the LPG isn’t hooked into.  Get advised to get my arse down to the station, apologise and pay up before they press charges.

So have now been out for a drive, returned, washed up, read blogs, had breakfast, and it’s still before when I’d normally head out to work!  Learning point there …  Off to South Wales letter for Kellie the youngers Stagging doo …